29 June 2020 Central Plateau

Falling Into Place

Autumn has always been associated with change, and if there was ever a time to contemplate how important it is to adapt to our shifting environment, it would be now. It is a test of character to stop lamenting the plans that may have been, but instead focus on how to make the most of what can be seen and experienced within our capabilities. The resounding truth is: Everyone is prone to feeling disappointment when situations do not unfold the way it was imagined. While not the most elaborate of itineraries, the original intent of an extended girls' week in Sydney filled with exploring, reconnecting and indulging still felt like a huge shame to miss. Having that cancellation left a void within a rare long weekend, and as a consolation to ourselves, a road trip was almost necessary under our obsessive need to make use of that precious time. But the greatest lesson is that sometimes change is a huge driver of creativity. Not only did that weekend give me exactly what I needed to become enamoured to the beauty of fall in New Zealand, but needing to be innovative with our ideas ended up resulting in one of the most magical experiences from a short term trip I have had in a very long time.

 
I believe that a true traveller appreciates different places in the world in any season. But honestly, the transition into the colder months of the year has been nowhere near comparable to bright warm days and late sunset evenings in the summertime. The grey and gloom as we started the early morning journey was somewhat typical for late May, yet the drive down to the Central Plateau made me realise that I may have thought far too highly of the role that climate plays. A successful road trip is all-encompassing with a myriad of components that make it such a treasure trove for memories. We were just two girls in their high neck sweaters, sipping on hot coffee that faintly fogged up the windows, cruising through the misty wet roads down to the centre of the North Island. Our travels to Canada may have spoilt us with their vibrant fall displays, but if anything, having no expectations had us in awe when we stumbled into the Waikato region. Colours sprouted from seemingly every corner. Foliage bursting along the roads. Along the higher edges of the river, flashbacks flared in the back of mind from scenes entering Toronto where palettes of red, orange, yellows and greens laid themselves along the slopes. 

The warm scenery eventually phased into tall forestry driving down to the first stop in the Redwoods. Approaching in the late afternoon, what was meant to be wet weather stayed mild and the dipping sun brought out the damp beauty of the surroundings along the scenic trail. The evergreen, pine-like trees around us created this dense pattern that made you feel like you could get lost within its depths. Trunks with their rich and rustic red bark reached up metres before sprouting leaves to cast dark blankets across the clearing. As thrilled as we were catching the glow of late daylight leaking through the crevices into the open canopy, we could not wait to see the beautiful tree lights on the twilight walk among the treetops. The structural engineer within me was impressed with the design behind this huge string of suspended wooden bridges linking one tree to another, holding us twenty or so metres above the ground. But then the aesthetic beauty of the entire display shone through. It was a beautiful sight seeing these stunningly intricate lanterns with its warm light bursting from its centre through the details carved in the wood into the darkness. It was such a unique and enchanting experience that had us cocooned in this bubble of happiness as we weaved our way out of the pitch-black darkness and plummeting night temperatures. 

Our anticipation of poor weather through this weekend challenged us to think outside the box with our preparation, yet the next morning gave us the perfect opportunity to do what we loved most. Blessed with crisp blue skies, we needed no further encouragement to make our way through the scenic stretch of desert road to reach the National Park. It felt strange to approach the mountains when it barely had a small dusting of snow and pull up to the familiar Whakapapa ski field car park with no intention of skiing. Veering off to the walk that would eventually take us to the beautiful Taranaki falls, the landscape had us reminiscing parts of the Tongariro Crossing that we loved so much. The flat gravel road paved a distinct path through an open expanse of golden grass tuffs, composing this truly unique view to find on a walk, leaving no obstruction to the beauty of all the mountains surrounding the area. Streams with the clarity of melted snow trickled and flowed past us now and then, and after what felt like a very short amount of time, we could see the falls slowly appearing in the distance. The way that water gushed out from the cliff crevice with such force created an absolutely majestic display from all angles. Amusingly, the first thing that came to mind was how similar it looked like the iconic scene from Up, but there was no denying that it did indeed feel like stumbling upon a storybook wonder itself. 

Coming back the same way, our keen eyes had already scouted an area that would be ideal to stop right at the edge of Lake Taupō. Reversing next to the tranquil lake, we got to work converting the back of the car into a cosy nook with duvets and pillows, embellishing the framing with strings of fairy lights. We tucked ourselves in and waited for the sunlight to fade, munching on apple cinnamon scrolls and chocolate, sending ourselves into consistent fits of hysterics at the amount of effort we went through to make this all happen. With every minute, the scene delved into deeper hues until dusk blanketed our surroundings and all we were left with were the calming sounds of water lapping onto the shore. The tiny warm lights around us started to glow like fireflies, and it really was a magical moment to appreciate the type of weekend we were able to create for ourselves. If that wasn’t already peaceful enough, we looked forward to ending the day soaking and relaxing in some glorious spa waters. Considering the last time we had this kind of experience together was in the middle of the Gatineau forest, complete with snowfall to end the night, we knew it would be hard to top. But this time looking out at the wafts of steam rising through the cool air as we sipped on our wine under the candlelight, it sinks in that that the whole point is not to repeat old experiences, but to have new ones that you remember for its own reasons. 

The rain finally came through on our last day of the weekend. It felt so nice to take some time with a lazy morning, enjoying our teas and coffees while looking out towards the dark outline of the mountain in the distance. With the fire burning and radiating enough warmth to fend off those increasing winds, it was almost impossible for the gloomy exterior to faze us. Ever the adventurers, we did not let a few drops of bad weather deter us from making one final stop on the way back home to finish the road trip off strong. I will admit that I was doubting whether we would find anything impressive at the Blue Springs given what we had seen and done over these last few days, especially since I had never understood why people found them so captivating. The drizzle of rain placed a rather dull cast on the sights for the initial part of the walk. But as we continued along the trail, the full extent of the name came to life, perhaps even more intensely with the overcast moody lighting bringing out that dewy rainforest ambience. The pristine water had this truly mesmerising quality the further we walked along, clear and bright enough to almost feel like stepping into a hidden world where mermaids would appear at any moment. It almost felt fitting considering that if I could only use one word to depict the trip, it would be magical. There was always something that lined up in just the right but the least expected way to create something special. 

When travel does not revolve so much around the novelty of the destination, it eases off a sense of guilt and allows you to take a slower approach. Relaxing instead of rushing is something domestic travel has given me the chance to try out. I can take the time to simply appreciate and recuperate without feeling like fighting those instincts to go and experience anything and everything. Our authentic autumn getaway was a result of letting plans unfold without expectation: All the way from full cooked breakfasts with a mountain view at the first break of dawn to smores by the outdoor fireplace late into the night. You can have all the plans in the world, yet it just goes to show that things will fall in place without you even trying.